Right in the middle of the southern trade-wind belt, Bali lies between latitude 8 and 9 degrees south. It is the most tourist-ready place in Indonesia, with an international airport accepting direct flights from Europe and Australia, as well as good connections for the USA.
Background
Bali is a densely populated island of over 3 million inhabitants. Hindu religion and culture permeate all areas of life, noticeable in the many ceremonies and colourful processions. Tourism, the mainstay of the economy, has had a massive impact, yet the strength of the Balinese culture has somehow survived, as has the warmth of the people.
The Setup
There are varied topographical and bathymetric circumstances on Bali. The Bukit in the south is a dramatically steep limestone peninsula fringed by shallow tables of coral that drop away reasonably severely. Fast reef breaks predominate as a result. The neck of the island is hard-packed sand with a mix of volcanic and calcareous grains, so dumping beach-breaks are no surprise. The body of the island is dominated by enormous volcanoes that have created black-sand and lava reef breaks, punctuated by the occasional river mouth.
The Waves
Whilst it is often used as a jump-off for other Indonesian surf adventures, Bali is where the whole thing started in the early 70s. Its still the center of Indian Ocean surfing, and has at least 6 of the worlds top 100 waves. There is a smattering of beach-breaks and some very high quality river mouth and even cobblestone point-style waves. What attracts the world surfing community however, are the long, perfectly formed reef-breaks of the Bukit peninsula down south. Uluwatu, Padang-Padang and Bingin are 3 unbelievable and unique lefts, while Nusa Dua, Hyatt Reef and Sanur offer 3 complementary rights of equally immense quality.
Tides
As in many parts of Indonesia, the character of waves in Bali changes dramatically according to the depth of water over the bottom. What may have been a grinding barrel at low tide, can become a group of playful peaks on high, although every spot is different. You can either get a tide table from a local surf shop, or just turn up and enjoy the different moods of the spot. If you miss the optimal tide, bear in mind that you will probably still have a fun surf, and you may also have missed the crowds who like to descend on the place at just the right time.
Winds
Many surf spots really come into their own when trade-winds kick in and comb the faces into perfect lines. Unlike, say, Southern California, glassy conditions are not always best, and can give a spot a kind of shapeless lethargy, or morning sickness�. Uluwatu is a good example. With winds kicking in around 10 a.m. onwards in dry season, you may therefore find that some spots are less crowded in the early mornings and, whilst not necessarily at their almighty best, can offer you more waves per hour.
Season
Bali surfing is generally divided into 2 coasts and 2 seasons. In essence, the west coast is off-shore throughout the dry season, from around April to September (and later if you are lucky). Winds are predominantly east - southeast. This is also the major swell window for the Indian Oceans big south pulses. It is southern hemisphere winter, and therefore peak season due to Balis proximity to Australia. For these reasons, the west coast waves, which are predominantly lefts, are the most well known and busiest. You can still surf these spots on lucky days off-season, and early mornings, so goofy-footers do not despair.
Wet season, from mid October to mid April, brings northwest trade-winds and quite a bit of rain. Some lucky travelers will only get wet at night , others will arrive in time for a full week or torrential rain; its a lottery. The up-side is less crowds, and a selection of awesome right-handers up the east coast from Nusa Dua to Sanur. Whilst there is less swell during this season, the more consistent spots like Nusa Dua itself will still be firing, and there are super-hollow, extremely long waves like Hyatt Reef to look forward to. Another factor is less Australians. That isnt Xenophobia, its just that Aussies surf pretty well so its harder to get waves when they are there en masse. Wet season falls across the northern hemisphere winter so the flavor can be more European.
Transport
Hiring a Bemo (minibus or big car with driver) is by far the best way to maximize your surf time and avoid getting lost and frustrated. Even if you can find your way around alone, chances are you will get stopped and fined by the police for not having a proper international license (there is a notorious police station on the way to Uluwatu). You can arrange drivers through any hotel, or at Bemo Corner (or any street) in Kuta. They are not as expensive as you might think, especially when shared between mates, and the drivers are always interesting, friendly guys who will look after you, point you in the right direction, and enrich your stay more than you enrich their pockets. See the Surf trip Planner at the back.
Many surf spots require a boat to get to, and all of these are well serviced by Jukung (wooden canoe with outrigger and motor) owners who line the beaches at Kuta, Nusadua and other spots. Pay your small 2-way fare nicely, and enjoy the ride; it is all in a good cause and paddling 800 yards to land, alone in the dark is not worth the saving.
Crowds
You will not escape people in Bali, whenever you are here. Lucky it is a party island so you can get up early and avoid them.
Boards
As in most of Indo, your usual board plus 6 inches length, and 1/4 inch thickness, will cover most situations. Waves are hollow and straight, so the rhino chaser approach does not always pay off, tending to limit your position changes in the barrel, or even catch. If your short board is a 6, then the ideal plan might be to take it along plus a 68 and a 7�.
Hazards
Shallow reef means cuts are common. Sneaker sets on bigger days. Crime is not a big issue but be careful late at night anyway.
Bali Bomb post-script
Almost every Balinese person you meet, is deeply saddened, and strangely embarrassed by the events of October 2002. The devastating attacks left wounds that will take a generation to heal. It is extremely likely you will meet somebody whose lost a family member. On a materialistic level, the economy of the Island has been dealt a knockout blow and there are many families living close to the bread-line. Bear this in mind when negotiating the price of your ride or T-shirt, and think of it as a tribute to the Balinese people that they remain the most warmly welcoming bunch of guys you are ever likely to meet. Whilst it is natural to fear going to a place that has been the target of a major act of bastardy, it is impossible to ignore the fact that Bali is still today, a safer place to be than most western cities.
Post a Comment