Surf Spot : Jimbaran Bay Bali Indonesia

Nestled in between the airport and the beginning of the Bukit Peninsula.

If there's a very big southwest swell out there it can offer beginners waves across the strip at low tide, breaking on sand and getting bigger the further N you go. There is a very rare right reef off the Four seasons at the S end, and 2 left points in coves further round. Both need low tide and huge swell to show, with SE winds off-shore. A bombora right left combo works way off-shore in similar, and might make a good tow-in spot.

Surf Spot : Padang-Padang Bali Indonesia

Head S from Kuta through Jimbaran. At the end of Jimbaran is a 3-way split. Take middle road marked 'Uluwatu'. After 4km approx. Take R at shop down Jl Labuansait all the way to the bridge above Labuansait Beach. Park. Down steps through rock tunnel. The main take-off is around the point to the left. You can walk around on low, or use the deep channel.

Classic, extremely hollow, very shallow left-hand reef break for experts. Padang is Bali's most consequential wave, but it needs a major ground-swell to show; think minimum 6ft plus at Uluwatu. Being clearly visible from the road, easily accessible, and unchallenging in the paddle-out, this spot gets very crowded indeed. The small take-off zone exacerbates the situation, so you need to be skilled and tactful to get your share of waves here. Even on a small day, take-off is usually straight into a yawning, turquoise, oval barrel, just like Pipeline. Then it's a matter of maximum speed, sight your exit, and stand solid all the way to the deep channel. A fall here is punishing, with pointy, lava-based shallow coral forming holes and spikes.

Padang works through the tides although low is extremely serious and should be avoided by newcomers. Mid tides still toss up perfect barrels and there's a good channel from mid to high. It's worth wearing reef boots at all times so that you can put your feet down when wiping out. Some even wear spring-suits; ostensibly for nipple-rash, but usually to give a little protection from the pock-marked reef. Experts only. Fickle. 3-10ft. Heading on up the hill towards Uluwatu there's a right to 'Thomas Homestay'. The beach under this is also known as Padang-Padang, and can have waves away from the crowds. Buy a cold drink and enjoy the view.

Surf Spot : Sumatra Indonesia

Sumatra is the vast frontier of unexplored surf in Indonesia. Much of its coastline is inaccessible by road, extensive jungled covered mountain ranges run the length of the island and tigers still prowl the jungles and harass local villages. There are miles and miles of coastline that are still unexplored and some of the best surf in the world peels away in Sumatra, most of it still largely unridden. Despite the massive amount of well know surf of the Mentawais, Nias and Krui, I estimate that less than 50% of Sumatran surf is known. The are extensive areas that are pretty much completely untapped. Aceh, Enganno, South Sumatra, the Java Strait, the Banyaks and Telos islands. The fact is most of it is completely unaccessible, except by boat. I'm really looking forward to seeing what we find in Sumatra. The potential is massive.

Surf Spot : Airport Lefts Bali Indonesia

Off the end of the runway. Catch a Jukung from South Kuta unless you are training for an Ionman contest. Superb left-hand reef on the same coral base that was used to anchor the runway. Sections are more fun and bash-able than most Indo breaks. Usually less crowded and bigger than Kuta reef next door, but its still worth going early to get an easier session in before the crowds. A second peak absorbs the numbers. Suffers from strong cross-offshore winds on dry season afternoons.

Surf Spot : Kuta Reef Bali Indonesia

S end of Kuta Beach at Wana Segara Street. Get a Jukung and politely pay your fare, about 20'000RP each way.

This classy reef left-hander reels for long enough to fit in multiple bottom turns, and can feature very make able barrels. Needs solid swell to get going (Ulus will usually be several feet bigger), but is the best wave near Kuta. Extremely crowded unless you go very early, and these days that means a dawn raid. Afternoons get wind-blown (cross-off-shore) as it's far from the lee of the land. A few hundred meters south towards the airstrip, but further out to sea, is Middles. Generally less crowded, bigger, but not as barrel-rich, Middles is a straight-forward take-off into a long wall with a few turns possible before the close-out section. Sometimes it lines up further, but riding beyond and inside the reef-line leaves you fully exposed to multiple hold-downs. Below mid is a close-out. For both spots book a ride both ways as it's a 20 minute paddle home. 2-10ft. Intermediates plus.

Surf Spot : Kuta and Legian beach-breaks Bali Indonesia

For many, the brown-water-beach-breaks stretching from Kuta Beach up to Seminyak are the first waves they surf in Indonesia. Not an inspiring introduction to Indian Ocean power, but these fairly consistent black sand beach-breaks are a great warm-up and jet-lag reviver, close the action.

Kuta Beach itself, the large strip centered around Jalan Pantai Kuta, can be the worlds worst close-out, especially at low-tide. At best, you can get fast cover-ups, and the up-side is the waves are usually super-hollow, and offshore in the southeast trades. At the west end of that street, you can jog up and check for the best peak.
Halfway, located level with Poppies Lane 2, often has the best peaks. You'll spot it from almost anywhere because there's always a solid group out there. It gets a bit more wind than spots down the beach but holds better shape thought the tides and is pretty consistent, and usually hollow. If its over 4 feet you will get thumped!
Padma, at the end of the street of the same name, is one of a number of well-frequented sections of beach running north from Kuta to Legian. If you're in a bemo, you might want to check the spots up and down Jalan Raya Kuta and find the best on the day. Body-boarders and a regular crew surf outside the Blue Ocean Hotel at the end of Jalan Putra, and there are plenty of peaks running across this area. The whole strip is often very murky, with plastic items floating in the water and washing up on the beach. Best avoided after rains.

Further up towards Seminyak are more low tide peaks, getting more consistent but messy as you head north. Best on morning glass or opportunistic NE winds. Of note is the beach-break called Petitenget, near the Legian Hotel.

Breaks from 1-6ft (more if lucky although often the bigger swells are a suicide mission involving heavy close-outs). Higher tides generally best. Ideal for beginners on most days. Can be used as an indicator for Ulu's and Bukit breaks; if its a genuine 4-6 feet here pack your gun and head south: Uluwatu could be 10 feet, Padang may well be breaking, and Green Ball will be too big by far.

Surf Spot : Canggu & Pererenan Bali Indonesia

Canggu: North from Kuta, through Seminyak and beyond. Just past Kerobokan and through many rice field, via Padang Linjong Village, you'll see signs to 'Canggu Surfing' & 'Echo Beach'. There are 3 access points.

Black lava sand beach with 2 areas to surf, over sand and lava rock. If you ever catch it with nobody out it can be eerie, but that is not likely. Canggu ('Changgoo') is the main escape route from Kuta beach breaks. Best surfed early morning before the trade winds, up to about 6-8ft. Waves tend to peak up out of nowhere here in the black water, and low tide can get sketchy on the inside. Low lying cliffs and steep beach at high are a hazard. Advanced. On moderate swells if Canggu is crowded, you can check the black sand beach-breaks at Brawa (Berawa) a kilometre south.

Pererenan: Right next door to Canggu and often considered part of the same spot. Road ends at Pondok Wisata Losmen right at the break. Quick way is via Kerobokan towards Tanah Lot, but Pererenan Village go left at 'Pantai Pererenan' sign.

Left and right peaks over sand and lava best on higher tides unless small. Both peaks shoulder out into a well defined channel although you can take the 'wrong way' on each depending on tides and size. There's sometimes a bit of a crew here but crowds are well absorbed by the shifting peaks. Afternoon breezes are side-onshore. All levels if small. Advanced when big. Consistent spot pulling more swell than Kuta beach-breaks.

Surf Spot : Balian Bali Indonesia

It's about a half way between Canggu and Medewi. Head north out of Kuta through Tabanan, to the T-junction at Antosari. Take a left down to Soka Beach and you'll rejoin the coast road which bends right to the north-west. After about 9km you are there; you'll see it down on the left from the bridge.

Consistent, well shaped river mouth/beach break (with a few cobblestones throw in). Generally gutless although can get hollow, but is more likely line up. If beaches at Kuta are 2ft, it might be 5 up here, but the trade-winds ruin it so get up early. Any tide can work. Crowds variable but rarely bad. All levels unless big. Water gets dirty. Soka Beach itself may be worth a look on the way although it's quality isn't as recognized as Balian. It's a pleasant spot for a re-fuelling at any of the warungs while you check the surf

Surf Spot: Aceh & The Northern Islands

Aceh Province - The Mainland
A separatist movement, recently lifted martial law, a press blackout, and a total ban on access by foreigners; not a recipe for casual surf travel. Indonesia's northernmost province has been wraps for several years although it seems that access will soon be granted again. Aceh west coast has makeable road that flirts with the coastline all the way from Banda Aceh to and beyond the port town of Meulaboh (250 km). Travellers along this road will see awesome forest and mountains, and get a glimpses of pristine beaches, some backed up by grade A surf. Beyond Meulaboh towards the ferry town of Susoh (for Simeulue), and Singkil (For the Banyaks), lies possibly the most uncharted surf territory in Indonesia.

The surf around the capital of Banda Aceh on the northern tip has been documented by stoked adventurers since the 1980. Surfers have even made their mark on Pulau Breueh and Pulau Weh, both accessible by ferry from Banda Aceh. Weh has some of the most beautiful palm fringed beaches and lagoons in Sumatra, with basic accommodation available. It is more famed for its diving (whale sharks and turtles) than its waves.

Easier access is at hand for Lhok Nga, a scenic spot about 15km south of Banda. In this area you can sniff out a beautiful little surfy village with a consistent, perfect frame reef break at its epicentre. A little further down, the very, very fickle hollow long rights of Pantai Camara can be worth the wait. Tides here are never a problem, but winds need to be right. Mami Dianas Losmen is a good base from which to find your own favorite spot. A ride further south still near Lamno, you might be lucky enough to glimpse good wet season rights at the river mouth, and a quality right point.

There are reef breaks all the way down the coast at and around Keudeunga, Babah Nipah, and all the way to Meulaboh, which has both long lefts and rights either side of a major headland. Serious travelers only. Medical help is far.


Simeulue
90NM west of Tapaktuan on Sumatra.

Part of Aceh Province, Simeulue and its satellite islets are as deep into frontier land as you can get. Essentially a volcanic island that is densely forested and sorrounded by coral at varying depths, there isn't much 'civilization', and accommodation is minimal (a new surf camp, Baneng Island, opens down on the southwest corner as we go to press).

Palm lined beaches and beautiful bays with great diving. Sketchy air access is available from Medan when politics allow, although once there, access to surf is harder than hard core. In addition, malaria is a serious problem here. If you want to go surf there, the only truly safe options are via established yacht charters or by prearrangement with the new surf camp, which has charter flights out of Medan, and which will no doubt be the first of several.


The Banyaks
declared off-limits to boat charters by the Indonesian government, the Banyaks lie 20 NM offshore from Singkil on mainland Sumatra Overland and ferry access from there if you are immensely patient. The only meaningful way to surf the islands is by yacht charter as and when the ban is lifted. What accommodation there is, is centred on Pulau Palambak Besar, consisting of leaf houses and home-stays. Prepare yourself for a low 'surf to hassle ratio'.

The 99 islands harbour a cache of surf spots that will one day be 'discovered' by the world at large. Treasure Island / Machine Gun Rights is perhaps the most talked about wave here. A superb lengthy right coral point that has been seen to form precise lines and almond barrels over hundreds of yards.

Hazards; very little accommodation. Malaria.

Surf Spot : Banyak Island

The Banyaks

declared off-limits to boat charters by the Indonesian government, the Banyaks lie 20 NM offshore from Singkil on mainland Sumatra Overland and ferry access from there if you are immensely patient. The only meaningful way to surf the islands is by yacht charter as and when the ban is lifted. What accommodation there is,BANYAK ISLAND LODGE located in the Bay of Plenty surrounded by lush tropical rain forest the first land based surf-eco lodge in the banyaks that provides surfers and non-surfers alike with comfortable accommodation that sits directly in front of a unique 3 wave setup.The lodge is an exclusive 8 guest facility providing surf trips that give maximum surf time with all the comforts and freedom

The Banyaks offer a wide range of surf suitable for all levels, styles and ages.

Due to its northern hemisphere location the banyaks are blessed with year round surf.

Trade winds from October to march blow offshore in the bay of plenty. West swell that hits the bay of plenty directly are generated by a combination of tropical cyclones in the Indian ocean while being enhanced by lingering swells from the south. 2008/9 off season saw back to back swells that ranged from 2-6ft.

From April to October winds are variable and usually tend west to south/west late morning making a combination of bay of plenty in the mornings and treasure island in the afternoon the chosen spots for optimal surf time. Ground swells from south-africa generate waves that range from 2-10ft with the odd swell reaching 12. When the big swells hit theres no other place to be than the banyaks. 

Surf Spot : Bali Indonesia

Where

Right in the middle of the southern trade-wind belt, Bali lies between latitude 8 and 9 degrees south. It is the most tourist-ready place in Indonesia, with an international airport accepting direct flights from Europe and Australia, as well as good connections for the USA.

Background

Bali is a densely populated island of over 3 million inhabitants. Hindu religion and culture permeate all areas of life, noticeable in the many ceremonies and colourful processions. Tourism, the mainstay of the economy, has had a massive impact, yet the strength of the Balinese culture has somehow survived, as has the warmth of the people.

The Setup

There are varied topographical and bathymetric circumstances on Bali. The Bukit in the south is a dramatically steep limestone peninsula fringed by shallow tables of coral that drop away reasonably severely. Fast reef breaks predominate as a result. The neck of the island is hard-packed sand with a mix of volcanic and calcareous grains, so dumping beach-breaks are no surprise. The body of the island is dominated by enormous volcanoes that have created black-sand and lava reef breaks, punctuated by the occasional river mouth.

The Waves

Whilst it is often used as a jump-off for other Indonesian surf adventures, Bali is where the whole thing started in the early 70s. Its still the center of Indian Ocean surfing, and has at least 6 of the worlds top 100 waves. There is a smattering of beach-breaks and some very high quality river mouth and even cobblestone point-style waves. What attracts the world surfing community however, are the long, perfectly formed reef-breaks of the Bukit peninsula down south. Uluwatu, Padang-Padang and Bingin are 3 unbelievable and unique lefts, while Nusa Dua, Hyatt Reef and Sanur offer 3 complementary rights of equally immense quality.

Tides

As in many parts of Indonesia, the character of waves in Bali changes dramatically according to the depth of water over the bottom. What may have been a grinding barrel at low tide, can become a group of playful peaks on high, although every spot is different. You can either get a tide table from a local surf shop, or just turn up and enjoy the different moods of the spot. If you miss the optimal tide, bear in mind that you will probably still have a fun surf, and you may also have missed the crowds who like to descend on the place at just the right time.

Winds

Many surf spots really come into their own when trade-winds kick in and comb the faces into perfect lines. Unlike, say, Southern California, glassy conditions are not always best, and can give a spot a kind of shapeless lethargy, or morning sickness�. Uluwatu is a good example. With winds kicking in around 10 a.m. onwards in dry season, you may therefore find that some spots are less crowded in the early mornings and, whilst not necessarily at their almighty best, can offer you more waves per hour.

Season

Bali surfing is generally divided into 2 coasts and 2 seasons. In essence, the west coast is off-shore throughout the dry season, from around April to September (and later if you are lucky). Winds are predominantly east - southeast. This is also the major swell window for the Indian Oceans big south pulses. It is southern hemisphere winter, and therefore peak season due to Balis proximity to Australia. For these reasons, the west coast waves, which are predominantly lefts, are the most well known and busiest. You can still surf these spots on lucky days off-season, and early mornings, so goofy-footers do not despair.

Wet season, from mid October to mid April, brings northwest trade-winds and quite a bit of rain. Some lucky travelers will only get wet at night , others will arrive in time for a full week or torrential rain; its a lottery. The up-side is less crowds, and a selection of awesome right-handers up the east coast from Nusa Dua to Sanur. Whilst there is less swell during this season, the more consistent spots like Nusa Dua itself will still be firing, and there are super-hollow, extremely long waves like Hyatt Reef to look forward to. Another factor is less Australians. That isnt Xenophobia, its just that Aussies surf pretty well so its harder to get waves when they are there en masse. Wet season falls across the northern hemisphere winter so the flavor can be more European.

Transport

Hiring a Bemo (minibus or big car with driver) is by far the best way to maximize your surf time and avoid getting lost and frustrated. Even if you can find your way around alone, chances are you will get stopped and fined by the police for not having a proper international license (there is a notorious police station on the way to Uluwatu). You can arrange drivers through any hotel, or at Bemo Corner (or any street) in Kuta. They are not as expensive as you might think, especially when shared between mates, and the drivers are always interesting, friendly guys who will look after you, point you in the right direction, and enrich your stay more than you enrich their pockets. See the Surf trip Planner at the back.
Many surf spots require a boat to get to, and all of these are well serviced by Jukung (wooden canoe with outrigger and motor) owners who line the beaches at Kuta, Nusadua and other spots. Pay your small 2-way fare nicely, and enjoy the ride; it is all in a good cause and paddling 800 yards to land, alone in the dark is not worth the saving.

Crowds

You will not escape people in Bali, whenever you are here. Lucky it is a party island so you can get up early and avoid them.

Boards

As in most of Indo, your usual board plus 6 inches length, and 1/4 inch thickness, will cover most situations. Waves are hollow and straight, so the rhino chaser approach does not always pay off, tending to limit your position changes in the barrel, or even catch. If your short board is a 6, then the ideal plan might be to take it along plus a 68 and a 7�.

Hazards

Shallow reef means cuts are common. Sneaker sets on bigger days. Crime is not a big issue but be careful late at night anyway.

Bali Bomb post-script

Almost every Balinese person you meet, is deeply saddened, and strangely embarrassed by the events of October 2002. The devastating attacks left wounds that will take a generation to heal. It is extremely likely you will meet somebody whose lost a family member. On a materialistic level, the economy of the Island has been dealt a knockout blow and there are many families living close to the bread-line. Bear this in mind when negotiating the price of your ride or T-shirt, and think of it as a tribute to the Balinese people that they remain the most warmly welcoming bunch of guys you are ever likely to meet. Whilst it is natural to fear going to a place that has been the target of a major act of bastardy, it is impossible to ignore the fact that Bali is still today, a safer place to be than most western cities.

Surf Spot : Airport Rights Bali Indonesia

On the southern side of the airstrip, Jukungs can be hired from the top end of Jimbaran bay, where there is a large fishing fleet.

Right hand reef break over a double curve of coral reef, that can barrel from start to finish and will be, at very least, extremely sucky. Of all the Kuta area reefs, this one is the shallowest, and the most likely to cut you if you fall. When it's around 3 feet on middle tides, it is a racy open tube all the way across. When it gets bigger, it just breaks on another section of the reef, just as shallow and round, for the most gaping stand-up tubes a man can want. On a 5-6ft day of low-ish mid tides and gentle easterly wind, it can dish out the best barrels of your life, although the exits are not always guaranteed.

Airport rights requires more swell than Lefts or even Kuta Reef if it is to fire; Kuta beach-breaks have to be at least 6 genuine feet. If you catch it on day one of a swell it'll be relatively uncrowded, but once word gets out every natural footer in town will show up looking for a break from surfing back-side. Although a dry season break, it is best early in the day before the winds get onto it; strong southeast trades create heavy cross-chop in the afternoons; it'll still barrel but the bumps can be harsh. 3-12ft plus. Advanced.

Surf Spot : Nias Lagundri

Lagundri Bay

An arduous journey is required. From Telukdalam on Nias, get a truck ride or opelet (minibus). It's 13km west and well known. The main wave is at Pantai Sorake, which is littered with losmen accomodation.

One of the world's very best right-handers peels into Lagundri Bay. Once the ultimate surfari destination, Nias has lost it's forefront position in the collective urfer's conscious, but it's still a veritable surf hub, teeming with surfers from across the globe. There are still uncrowded days to be had outside of major European or Australian holiday periods. There is plenty of accommodation, with over 20 losmen, and a heap of watering holes and warungs. Despite all this modernisation, Nias is in a malaria zone, with resistant strains appearing in recent years. Major flooding is possible in wet season, with severely destructive deluges over the last few years. Rip-offs have been on the increase in and around the surf village at Sorake Beach, with attracts a few shady characters.

The Point: Opposite the tower on Sorake Beach, lies the perfect right-hander that we have salivated over in surf magazines since the late '70's. South to South-west swells wrap around the outer headland and unload onto the table reef, bulging and jacking up at the take-off zone. The wave is often an extended barrel from thereon to the finish, and works from 3 to about 12 ft plus. There's a good deep paddle-out channel to the right of the take off-zone. On the inside, smaller forgiving peaks are good for warming up and getting your bearings; this fun wave with few consequences is sometimes reffered to as Kiddieland.

Ihe Machine: Right inside the bay is a perfect left-hand barrel machine requiring very large swell from the south. It's the spot to check when The Point is too big. Most tides OK although full moon high is the most likely to yield quality.

Indicators: Way out the back to the right of The Point is a heavy, current affected, hollow right-hand reef break that's often more exposed to winds. On lower tides this is a dangerous spot, but whatever the conditions, it's for the experienced only. On high tide it is more makeable but still for hell-men.

Hazards; Reef cuts, urchins, malaria, rip-offs. Roads go quite a long way up both coasts, enabling some excellents exploration expeditions. To the west, spots such as Sobatu (for pros only), Northern Secrets, or Lantana Lefts, can be sniffed out with the help of local guides. Telukdalam itself has a couple of valid waves in it's vicinity, including a good right-hander. The locations of these waves is best left vague, in order to sweeten the thrill of finding them.


Hilisataro Village
You can check this area out from Lagundri, hiring a local guide or renting a bike and heading east past Telukdalam.

If there's a solid south swell, a couple of good waves can be found here, notably a right-hand reef/point that get good when winds are either zero or northwesterly. Middle tides best. Not the most consistently big spot, but will often have a wave of sorts.


Afulu Beach
In the northwest sector of Nias. An hour's boat ride from Asu, which is your best approach; you can arrange it from Hinako's Hideway or Patrick's on that island.